80 JOUKNEYS IN PERSIA LETTER xis would arrange the marches and the camping-grounds with reference solely to her well-being. She is washed from her nose to the tip of her tail every evening, clothed, and kept by the camp-fire. She is a dainty, heartless, frivolous creature, very graceful and pretty, and in character much like a selfish, spoilt woman. Unfortunately, in one of the many attempted fights among the horses, Screw kicked her on the chest and fore-leg a few days ago, which has made a quarrel between Hadji, Screw's owner, and Aziz. Now Aziz is making me a slave to Ms animal. That night, after a tiring day, I was sleeping soundly when I was awakened by Aziz saying I must come to his mare or he would stay behind with her the next day. This is his daily threat. So I had to bring her inside my tent, and sleepily make a poultice and bandage the hurt. I have very little vaseline, and after putting it twice on the slight graze on her chest, which it cured, I said, when he asked for it a third time, that I must keep the rest for men. " Oh," he said, " she's of more value than ten men." Lately he said, " I don't like you at all, you give me many things, but you don't give me money; and I don't like the Agha, he doesn't give me half enough. I'm going back to-morrow, and then you'll be robbed of all your things, and you'll wish you had given them to me." When I do anything, such as opening a whitlow, which he thinks clever, he exclaims, " May God forgive your sins !" This, and " May God forgive the sins of your father and mother !" are ejaculations of gratitude or surprise. One day when I had been attending to sick people for four hours, I asked him which was the more " meritorious" act, attending to the sick or going on pilgrimage ? He replied, " For a Kafir no act is good," but soon added, " Of a truth God doesn't think as we do, I don't know."